SS18 report part 1 - seven fashion shows everyone were talking about

So here it come Spring/Summer 2018 recap. This time in 3 parts: most talked about shows, brands to watch and the one you can't never forget about. I'm starting with 7 shows everyone were talking about. Here we have: Donatella's tribute to Gianni, epic Saint Laurent shows under Eiffel Tower, 2 debuts everyone was waiting for - Natacha Ramsay-Levi and Waight Keller, each season stronger and stronger Gvasalia for Balenciaga, Tom Ford's first New York show in a year and Raf Simons exploring America. Take a closer look at 7 best collections of SS18.

1. Versace

This year marks the 20th anniversary of the brutal murder of Gianni Versace in broad daylight in Miami Beach. Donatella Versace chose to stage her Spring 2018 show at Milan’s Triennale museum as a tribute to Gianni’s inspirations and creations, to celebrate “a genius . . . an icon . . . my brother.” She wanted the focus to be on his life, not his violent end, but also his feminist leanings and the eternal relevance of his designs.

And so, for the first time since assuming creative direction of the company, she pulled directly from archives the key prints and pieces from the years 1991–95, the period that saw some of Gianni Versace’s most iconic collections: Vogue, Warhol, My Friend Elton, Icons, Baroque, Animalia, Native Americans, Tresor de la Mer, Metal Mesh, and Butterflies. From each of these print motifs, Donatella Versace remade and reinterpreted the blouses, square-shouldered jackets, leggings, catsuits, corsets, trenches, mini sheaths, and maxi skirts. Not to mention high-waisted jeans, logo tees, fanny packs, and jeweled stiletto boots.

We will not forget this the finale by Naomi Campbell, Carla Bruni, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, and Helena Christensen, walked to the chorus of George Michael’s “Freedom! ’90” for very long time. 

2. Saint Laurent 

“I want to tell the story of Saint Laurent, of Paris—nothing more deeply than that,” said Anthony Vaccarello, fielding a huge backstage scene after his epic open-air show on a balmy night, with the Eiffel Tower sparkling in the background. Hundreds of spectators—the public and professionals—looked on, held in the awestruck moment. There were legs for miles and glamour as far as the eye could see. Ostrich feathers flew, glitter dresses glinted, duchesse satin bubbled, and boots upon more boots stomped. Vaccarello summed it up, humbly and succinctly: “That girl of Saint Laurent—she wants to have fun,” he said. “She’s not depressed. She wants to enjoy life!”

3. Balenciaga

“I wanted it to be more Demna, less Cristóbal this time,” he explained. “After the past few seasons, I could feel myself getting restrained by homages.” So, can he define what “Demna” is? “Something more vicious. Gothic, in a way,” he replied. “Fashion is a reflection of the way we live. I wanted this feeling [that] something dangerous is going to happen.” And he pointed at the heavily spiked, ankle-strapped pointy stilettos which captured his mood. “I’m pleased with them,” he said. Gvasalia’s trenchant observational sense of humor was all over the collection; the kind of bad-taste-into-chic provocation that gives him the edge with Balenciaga maniacs. Scans of euro and dollar notes and screen-saver scenes of sunsets and mountain landscapes became prints. Souvenir-shop charms jangled from chain belts and bag straps. Chunky gilded earrings were taken from old “duty-free” Balenciaga-branded merch. A plastic molded top-handled motorcycle bag appeared. At one point, trousers and skirts took on the detail of café umbrellas and awnings, complete with fringe. Finally, like Christopher Kane, he went to Crocs—the ultimate ugly comfort shoe producers—to make a line of giant platforms.

4. Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein does American Psychos for Spring 2018. Under a ceiling strewn with Sterling Ruby pieces, Raf Simons and Pieter Mulier presented their second collection for Calvin Klein. Riffing on the shapes and style of their debut collection, the designers built on diner uniforms and traditional suiting while injecting new elements like opera coats and full skirts. All this was underlined with a perverse twist—see the rubber dresses and Warhol knife prints—that evoked not only the horrors of cinema but some of the real world horrors we are living.

5. Chloé

Natacha Ramsay-Levi is the first Frenchwoman installed at Chloé since Martine Sitbon was appointed in 1988. She did a bang-up job. the headquarters was much too small for a crowd so curious about Ramsay-Levi—this was a super-confident debut, bubbling over with variety and distinctive pieces that will be instantly identifiable as Chloé when they start parading around next year. Not to mention with relatable accessories like cannage leather boots, python booties, and multi-strap anti-It bags to sweeten the mix.

Ramsay-Levi’s approach was to look at the entire history of the house and lift a little bit from all of her predecessors. More than anything, though, this looked like Ramsay-Levi herself and the strong, sturdily heeled figure she’s long cut on Paris’s fashion scene.

6. Givenchy

To mark the changing of the guard at Givenchy, the LVMH-owned house secured the Palais de Justice, a magisterial building of mid-19th-century vintage on the Île de la Cité, never before used for a fashion show. in a season of debuts, this one was the most keenly anticipated.

In a preview, Waight Keller said she did indeed look back at house founder Hubert de Givenchy’s dynamic sketches, and that she came to the conclusion that he started everything with the shoulder; also, that he was a fan of graphic print. She said she chose two: a clover from 1961 and the animal motifs of 1981. Her color cues came from the archives as well: lots of black and white with pops of mint and red. Waight Keller met the 90-year-old couturier last week and left their hour-long meeting feeling like she had his blessing. He confirmed her impressions about his design aesthetics. There is no right answer about how to approach a heritage brand in 2017. Do look at the archives or don’t. . . Acknowledge your predecessor or ignore him. . . What’s required are clothes with a heart and soul, something to get the blood pumping.

7. Tom Ford

That was Tom Ford’s first New York show in a year. Ford’s reputation precedes him. He’s the guy who resurrected Gucci, then took up the reins at Yves Saint Laurent before walking away from the Gucci Group a very, very rich man. He’s gone Hollywood, while simultaneously building his eponymous label into a nearly $2 billion business on the twin engines of his menswear and beauty lines; womenswear makes up just 30 percent.

At first glance, the red carpet interlude wasn’t quite so racy, but as those ruched net dresses made their way back down the runway, it became clear just how sheer they were. The times have changed, but Ford is as fearless as ever.