chanel f/w 2014/15
Karl Lagerfeld for fall imagined world as a megastore—un grand magasin—under
the sign of the double C. The shelves of his extraordinarily detailed
set were stacked with more than a hundred thousand items, brazenly
advertised at 20 or 50 percent more. No bargains in these aisles. The labels of at least five hundred everyday products had been re-coded in Chanelspeak. Personal favorites included chic black cotton buds sold as bâtonnets élégants; boxes of handkerchiefs labeled Les Chagrins de Gabrielle; house paint
in a color called Gris Jersey; detergent and potato chips; and, best of
all, a hardware department that featured a chain saw with a real Chanel
chain. The one that most entranced the locals was the recasting of a sac poubelle (garbage bag) as a sac plus belle (definitely not a garbage bag). There were also doormats printed with
"Mademoiselle Privé." Oh, and one more, the fashion. Lagerfeld helped to make trainers the talking
point of the Couture season. Here, he built a collection from the ground
up on the footwear. Chanel catwalk accommodated an unusual variety of
silhouettes and a massive range of options, from Cara Delevingne's raggy
workout-wear to the sheath of clotted flowers that emerged at show's
end. Couture's definite corseting inserted itself into the collection,
but there was also a raggedy-hemmed smock dress and a black velvet
jumpsuit, and a prevailing sense that Lagerfeld has no interest in offering directives. With today's overwhelming, irresistible extravaganza, he
was saying that fashion's a supermarket.